Hey guys, i went to pepboys today cause they guarenteed the job within an hour, i'd have to wait much longer at the local mechanic. Everything went good, but the main reason why i had the rear pads replaced was because of the passenger side INSIDE pad, it was slanted-causing the end of the pad to wear down and have the metal backing of the pad scrape the rotor.

These pads still had life to them, but i got new pads anyway...why was that one pad crooked like that..? basically, instead of both pads compressing normally, the inside pad was tilting and making the edge of the pad hit the rotor. ONE thing i did notice, that same pad was MISSING the top clip-the one that bends down and under the top of the caliper to act as a support-and LITERALLY that pad was pretty much 'free' moving.

PS, job done, everything good...i just want to know why that would happen. The pep boys mechanic said something about freezing..?

Also, how long do pads last in general..? I got new pads in the front this past summer (august) and wonder how long those will last..? 10k..?20k..? I'm not a "brake" driver either if that helps.

95 4.6L bird.

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Originally Posted by solaris=amazing
Also, how long do pads last in general..? I got new pads in the front this past summer (august) and wonder how long those will last..? 10k..?20k..? I'm not a "brake" driver either if that helps.

95 4.6L bird.

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Often uneven wear is due to the fact that the pad does not 'slide' on the mounts easily.
The mounts for the pads must be free of rust and debris. Most mechanics coat the contact points in a specialized brake lubricant "Siliglide" or anti-seize compound.
If a mechanic fails to clean up the mount points, uneven wear may result.

Also those clips are the 'anti-rattle clips' and do just as the name suggests. Their absence is more likely to result in noisy brakes than uneven wear. But they may be indicitave of a shoddy brake job done in the past.

Thanks.